If you are thinking of purchasing a new suit, this guide can help you to make a decision.
The variety of alternatives often can make it difficult to choose the right suit, especially if you don’t know the differences between the various types of suits.
Ready to wear/Off the rack (RTW)
First of all a known increase in RTW suit making was noted during the ‘War of 1812’ (1812-1815). At that time there was a great need for mass production of military uniforms in the United States. Consequently, clothing manufacturers decided to divide the production of uniforms to ‘standardize’ different specific sizes. Nowadays, on a global level, the majority of all suits are made in this way. Ready-to-wear garments are mass produced by machines, in standard sizes, according to a predetermined design.
It is very important to note that hand-tailored suits are customly created with a ‘full canvas’ layer, resting between the lining and the outer fabric. However, this is not the case with RTW suits. Instead, a thin adhesive fabric is sticked to the outer fabric inside the lining. While, the RTW suits may appear at first glance to be the same as tailored suits, there is a great difference in quality and wearability. This is particularly evident when the suit is to be cleaned. Often the adhesive fabric creates some problems. For example the creation of unsightly wrinkles and separation of the adhesive fabric in places. These drawbacks are accepted as reasonable sacrifices to meet lower production cost and faster manifacturing time. This procedure doesn’t give the same structure to the jacket and, as a result, it will quickly lose its original shape when you fold it or dry clean it. Even if the suit is ready-made to be displayed on the rack and to be taken at home, it’s created with trendy and cheap fabrics, with sticked lapels, in addition to the issue caused by the standard fit.
Made to measure (MTM)
Those who make MTM suits utilize already created pattern models and then modifies them if, by chance, the measurements are outside the normal range. Every brand that produces MTM suits makes a different number of modifications. Some makers skip important steps even if the customer has a say in customizing some details such as: fabric, pockets, buttons, single or double brested, lapels, trouser pleats.
So, regarding Made to Measure suits, there is quicker production and similar finishing and pricing to RTW production. Even with customized measurements, the garment rarely fits like a bespoke suit and developes other problems that a hand-tailored suit does not present during the life of the garment.
The ultimate luxury tailored suit. Unique, enduring, fascinating, essential for all of those who have an appreciation for elegance and desire to obtain a garment as a unique piece of art.
A bespoke pattern is drawn and cut by expert tailors, using the customer’s body measurements as a guide. Careful attention is made to aspects of the individuals posture and aspects of the physique (for example the slope of the shoulder, the arch of the back, etc…). Due to high quality considerations and careful attention to detail, each 100% handmade tailored suit is unique and, with proper care, can last a lifetime. Bespoke jackets are ‘full canvas’ or ‘half canvas’ garments. They are not glued in place like the majority of ready-to-wear and MTM suits. The ‘canvas’ is positioned between the lining and the suit’s fabric. In this way, it reinforces the structure and the fit of the jacket. Furthermore, it gives flexibility to the jacket. For example, if the jacket needs to be folded when traveling, it will easily return to its original form before wearing it once more. A Bespoke suit is exclusive and timeless. Created as with the experience of a master tailor with luxurious finishing, it guarantees a superior fit and ensures a more comfortable wear.
To sum it all up
Choosing an RTW suit is basically made to save money. Also, the option of selecting an MTM suit is generally made for a slightly greater concern for a better fit but still within a lower price-range. While, on the other end of the spectrum, a ‘bespoke’ suit is chosen not for price but for outstanding quality, for the fabric, finishing and the best fit.
In the end, a ‘bespoke’ suit presents a man as more tasteful, elegant and placing him on the cutting edge.
Up till now, it wasn’t possible to configure and choose your bespoke suit online. Now everything is changed, in keeping with time-honored methods and traditions: Aesthego creates bespoke suits utilizing environmentally-friendly materials and original designs. Everything is hand-crafted by master tailors from Tuscany, Italy.